You know, when I first got to China, I never imagined I would ever find myself hanging on to the back of a motorcycle. But things change. Yesterday, I found myself heading fully across Guangzhou, in the rain, with a computer in my lap, hanging on to a chubby moto driver wih only my knees to hold me.
It was a very gradual progression. I remember my first moto ride. I was late for dance practice (long story) during the first semester at Huanggang Teacher’s College. The December weather was bitingly cold, the pavement was freshly wet from a recent drizzle, and I stood at the bus stop impatiently waiting for the #6 to arrive.
Before the #6 arrived, a young guy pulled up right in front of me, and gestured for me to hop on. I declined the offer, thinking there was no way I was going to get on that deathtrap in slippery streets, and to pay for the priveledge. But he persisted, and finally made it clear that he knew me, he was going to campus as well, and this was a free ride. Not being one to give up on freebies, I put aside my fears and climbed on. He was wearing gloves, and a helmet, and he asked me to hold a single rose for him, apparently for his girlfriend.
He took off, nonchalantly avoiding the honking taxis, the #5 bus, the equally nonchalant pedestrians, bicyclists, and handcarts. I held onto his shoulders for dear life. He tried to engage in friendly conversation about how he recognized me as a foreign teacher, how his girlfriend was a roomate of my students, how happy he was that me and my foreign friends had come to his college. All I could do was shutter my reply through chattering teeth. By the time we had arrived at campus, about a 10 minute ride, I could not longer feel my hands or my face, but I gave a smile as best I could and thanked the young Romeo for his help.
I learned a few things: motorcycle drivers like to talk to their passengers, and never ride a moto on a cold day without gloves.
I avoided motorcycles completely after that, and actually it wasn’t until 2 years later, I was working on a project in Longang, an hour away from downtown Shenzhen, when I rode a moto for the second time. Out here, there were no other options i terms of getting to where you wanted to go. So I got used to it. I got used to the feel of the wind in my hair, well, that’s mostly figurative; I got to the point where I didn’t need to make my knuckles white on the rear-rack of the motorcycle seat. The motorcycles down there rarely had working speedometers, or tachometers, they just went, and you go with them. After about nine months of about 4-6 rides a week, I moved on to a new project. This one also was in the outskirts of the city, and required me to use motos to get there and back from the bus station.
This is going on and on… I stop now.